We left Warderick Wells early morning out the cut for Eleuthera. Our plan was to tour the island on the west side (Bank side). We heard talk about the island from Alley Cat and Shiloh who spent time on the east and north side as well as Island Khaya who sailed through last year on their last time in the Bahamas...plus we knew that we had the time to take it in. I'm sure we sailed there but frankly I don't remember which is shameful because it's a lovely route from Warderick to Rock Sound where we stopped first.
We came upon the southern hook of the island past the two marinas, (one the upscale Cape Eleuthera) then around along Davis Channel past the sand flats and beacon and into Rock Sound Harbour. Most people know this area because of the self sustaining Island School located here along with the gorgeous marina and beautiful waters along the Sound. Tragically, this area will now also be know for a horrible freak accident where a young kite boarder fell in the water on top of a ray that barbed him in the upper leg. Maybe this was news at home but it was definitely news in the Bahamas and among cruisers (as this young man and his girlfriend were). Sadly by the time his girlfriend reached him and was able to get medical help, it was too late and he bled to death. Shocking and so upsetting. We had actually anchored near his boat on our stop at Mackie Shoals from Bimini to Chubb and met a couple who had been traveling somewhat with them. It sounds cliche to talk about the gift of life but it is. This guy was out there, drinking in life which is beautiful...and a lesson for us all about how you need to live it while you have it.
There were not too many boats when we arrived and Captain placated me by anchoring north of the Government Dock where it was "crowded", that is, there were five boats there. We found a place that was supposed to be by a restaurant and dock that was a short walk to a super duper grocery store--THE grocery store on the entire island as well as many of the other islands and cays. I say supposed to be because our chart books were four years old and I read conflicting reports on the various cruiser sites (shocking). Anyway, we anchored and lo and behold...there was Floridian anchored just a pinch up from us. Talk about a small world! Floridian was a sailboat Mark met first in Dinner Key then we saw again in Miami Beach then again on the way from Bimini to Chubb. That's a funny thing about doing the Florida to Bahamas trip, you see the same folks and in the most unlikely places.
We went ashore and discovered that, yes, it was that restaurant except that it was now called Wild Orchid but they had Kalik Light and nice ladies working there so we were in! If you happen to go there, they also have free WIFI and Jon seemed to give it a thumbs up. The next day we hit The Market Place, that super duper grocery just up the street. It was pretty impressive and we got provisioned up quite nicely. As we walked out we saw a cute little dog waiting outside and Mark recognized her as Floridians pup and on queue, Lynn walked out of the store. We chatted and walked together a bit, learning that she was manning the boat for a week or so while Paul was delivering a boat with a friend. Of course we wanted her to know she was welcome to come over, especially since she was by herself for a while (Lynn is a sweet and friendly outgoing girl so she easily made friends with other boats and locals). It was a nice treat and change of pace to have her pop over for a little bit that evening and little Foxy Lady (cutie pom). What a great boat dog. We enjoyed catching up on their trip and felt for them with their less than comfortable crossing and unfortunately diesel fuel mishap in Nassau. Clearly two special people because for all the stress and frustration, sounded like they took it in stride and continued to keep on keepin' on. You learn a lot from people you meet along the way and we couldn't help but be impressed with these two "kids" and their spirit and enthusiasm. Paul is a huge spear fisher and catcher of lobster, etc. The guys would have liked to have had someone like Paul to teach them how to spear and catch and you could tell the whole Floridian crew had shiny happy karma!
Also while at Rock Sound we did a walking tour of the very small town including the Ocean Hole right there in the middle of it. We ate some local fare at Sammy's as well. Don't ask me when but maybe our last day there the men folk got out the bikes and I got out the jogging shoes so we could do a trip over to the ocean side. It was about a mile and a half but I managed to run most of the way over and most of the way back. The boys were long gone on the bikes but Mark did come back to make sure I hadn't passed out on the side of the road haha. We found our way over to Nort' Side but only found an empty restaurant and dog inside...wait, we did also find stairs down to the beach. Gorgeous! Now that I knew what to look for after the beach trip on Long, I did recognize pink beach here. Well, I would hope so considering Eleuthera is known for them ;-) It was a great walk along the beach and the Atlantic shore of the Bahama Cays and Islands is simply amazing and usually spotted or lined with reefs. We met the house kitty cat on the way out. Mark is the cat whisperer after all.
Our time at Rock Sound was coming to and end and was punctuated by a surprise popcorn delivery from Lynn and Foxy Lady. What a charming sweet girl--I had mentioned that I wish I had popcorn on board and knew how to make it so she put some together for me with instructions. Too kind. We also had a nice chat with a sailboat couple at Wild Orchid who had arrived recently.
Our next stop along the inside of Eleuthera was to be Governor's Harbour, the first capital of the Bahamas for you history buffs. I was excited because I read good things about the homes there and the amenities we may find.
Here's the photo summary of Rock Sound...
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| Coming upon Eleuthera; Cape Eleuthera Marina in the distance. |
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| Hard to see but that's the tower along the sand flats between Davis Channel and the island. |
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| There we are anchored in Rock Sound Harbour next to Floridian |
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| Our center for WIFI, Kalik and burgers--Wild Orchid |
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| Jon taking a chill |
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| Pier ruins near the Government Dock |
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| Beautiful Church on the waterfront |
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| Other boats anchored farther South |
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| Lucky shot with the birds |
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| Nort' Side |
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| Eleuthera was where the waters started to take on their magical emerald hue |
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| Pink Sands |
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| This was the run route (well bike route too) |
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| Obligatory shot of Stray Cat anchored off the shoreline |
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| A series of sunset cloud photos |
Oh! what a beautifully unique sunset in the last photo. So, good that you capture these photos for your memories.
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