Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Last visit in Exumas--Warderick Wells Return

After a beautiful Easter snorkeling around Cambridge and catching up with Island Khaya after many weeks, we woke and Jon steered us out of the field and north towards Warderick Wells.  It was a good trip until the very end when we were caught in some pretty heavy squalls and ended up puttering around outside the final entrance to the Park field channel.  Other than poor Jon getting soaked, the squalls passed and in we went before the next round got too close.  Funny that we didn't remember the heavy current inside the mooring field but maybe that's because we didn't know any better that first time around?  We got ourselves on the ball and checked in with a hello to Andrew and cookie delivery.  That was between being stalked by a little bird who actually flew in the salon to make a play for the bread I had made...he was cute and I did share a few crumbs of bread, but outside.

Hardy current coming out of the cut at Cambridge that morning
He had some gumption and no problem making himself at home in the cockpit
You know the thing that is hard about doing these updates so many weeks later is that the little details evaporate.   For example, I had forgotten that I made cookies on the way to Cambridge as Easter treats for Island Khaya (and us) and for a treat for Andrew.  I also forgot that the day before, Mark had dropped the ring of air pump nozzle adapters in the water and I had jumped in to get them--essentially scaring the crap out of the remora who had decided to adopt our boat.  No, not a shark at all--we learned that the first time there when we saw "something" in the water--is that a shark? No, remora...little stinkers.  Ok so anyway, then there was my great idea to swim to Island Khaya to deliver their cookies.  No problem swimming over but the current was faster than I had expected and swimming back was not easy...Mark to the rescue in the dinghy and pulled me back to our boat.  Anyway, luckily we were always quick to take a lot of pictures. And what made me think of that was looking at pictures of the two/three remoras who were under our boat at Warderick Wells...we were taking photos like crazy trying to capture them. 





Our time at the park was only going to be a few days and was precious to me because it was the last time we'd be in the Exumas.  Was it then that reality started to set in?  Nah, probably not because there was snorkeling and hiking to be done!!  Jon even got one of the kayaks out and took a tour of the mooring field!  Mark and I took the dinghy over to the Rangers Garden and did some drift snorkeling--again, the current was pretty strong--and on our second time across, Mark spotted a handsome eel among the coral.  We had found a massive lobster before that and while poking the camera in his "face" his grouper body guard came up and gave us a major grouper stink eye.   If you can imagine a huge grouper swimming up and giving you an underwater dirty look, that's pretty much just what it was like!  If we had only gotten it on film!  LOL!!

We also snorkeled around the wrecked boat on Ball 9.  I didn't expect much and was truly blown away to see the reef that it had formed.  We also spotted a gigantic ray and back at the boat I was able to snap a picture of it in all its grace and glory.  They are so fantastical...grace, speed when they want, gliding and 'flying' while you watch hypnotized.  And for my bragging rights:  back at the boat I put on the snuba gear and actually went underwater, breathing through the regulator.  Scared, yep; death grip on the rudder, yep; claustrophobic under the water, yep; calmed down after a bit of time letting the weights take me down a tad and just hanging around under the boat, yep.  You'll have to trust me that I did well for my first time.  No screaming or crying LOL!!









Trying to be sassy
Magnificent creature
We also took advantage of our time and had a really amazing hike...we headed towards the south of the Cay this time and got sooooo close to the Pirates Lair trail but ran out of time and mostly ran out of water--yikes!  So around we turned and back up the eastern coast line for "home".  Our timing was perfect for a get together with Andrew complete with homemade pizzas.  It was a joy to spend time with Andrew again.  I was happy to learn that he has someone to help with the office management now and that will free his time up for park and natural resource management as well as patrols and protecting the land and waters from ne'er-do-wells and worst yet, poachers and drug mules.  I have a lot of respect for him and meeting and getting to know him was a high point of the trip.


I think this is the only live snake I saw on the whole trip...lotta dead ones in the road so nice to see a little cutie enjoying his nice snake house.

 As always, the sunsets were like little gifts we got each night...



 

The next morning we were up at sunlight and making our way back east; destination:  the Island of Eleuthera, the middle/southern area--Rock Sound to be exact. 
Heading out the cut on our way to Eleuthera; good bye and thank you Exumas!




Tuesday, April 28, 2015

15 hours to Cambridge Cay

It turned out that it would be a 90 mile trip from Conception to Cambridge NOT 70...that meant we would have to leave extremely early to give ourselves the minimum 15 hours we needed to get there and hopefully catch the tide coming into Bell Cut.  We left Conception at 1:00 am under a full moon with decent wind and a nice NW current...it was a mesmerizing experience to be under sail at that hour.  We were able to keep under sail until 10:30 am when motor sailing began.  It was a good trip and we were comfortably on a mooring ball by 1630 that afternoon.

We were able to communicate with Island Khaya via sketchy cell coverage as long as you stood on top of the boat and were beyond patient.  They arrived Easter morning and it was a perfect day to meet up again.  I had gotten up before sunrise and had some special personal time to myself celebrating a private Sunrise Service...the ability to have that quiet self reflection while reading the Easter story was extremely meaningful to me.  As always with these time of intense feeling and emotion, I thought of my mother which made that morning to myself even more meaningful.

Very soon that day, Island Khaya arrived.  Mark and I snorkeled around the Mooring Field after taking a trip to the little Cay where you pay your fee.  Wow, what a joy, we drifted along and deceide to go in 'one more time' and what a reward we received--beautiful coral and fun fish and turtles...than goodness we took that 'one last quick trip into the water'.  Then we headed out to the Sea Aquarium and the Plane Wreck sites.  The Sea Aquarium was packed with "guests" from various motor yachts so we tried the Plane Wreck first where only one yacht tender was tied up...turned out to be perfect timing!  The coral around the wreck was amazing and by the time Mark and Jon were done there, the Aquarium was empty and we had it to ourselves!!  It's amazing how things work out.  Had the Sea Aquarium not been so packed, we never would have gone over to the plane wreck site and that would have been such a big loss for us.  Thanks fate!!  That evening we enjoyed a "farewell for now" cocktails and snacks on Island Khaya.  The next morning we were going to head back to a special stop that we loved so much previously--the Park Headquarters in Warderick Wells.

Here are some shots from around Cambridge just a stones throw from the mooring ball:
Easter Sunrise
Mr. Turtle



Our wonderful stop at the plane wreck reef near the Sea Aquarium (just north of Cambridge):










Mark playing Superman or should I say Aquaman?  ha
Then over to the Sea Aquarium with the perfect timing where the yacht guests had left but the tide current was still manageable...we had it all to ourselves.  Literally no one there but us and the fishes!










There is a ray between them



Forced underwater selfie

My favorite shot of the huge ray...poor guy just wanted to be left alone