We passed a pod of dolphins which was magical then nearly ran into...something. Mark said 'Is that a wave?' No that's something! Full reverse! And turned back to go around it. A sandbar? Shoaling? A massive line of dead seaweed that was for some reason a foot high? Who knows but it wasn't on any charts (NOAA, Navionics, Active Captain, Google) and we were on the right side of the markers so it's a mystery. With that out of the way, off we went, a little more awake and anxious. Didn't help that I was up front and should have called it out so 'that was me, that one's on me' as we like to say around here.
We entered the Channel with Island Khaya the ocean and the stars. The clouds were out as a reminder of the storm coming across Cuba and South Florida and heading our way but they were kind enough to share the sky with the stars. The hard and the easy, remember?
It was a reasonably uneventful crossing and we motor sailed the trip. The wind teased us yet again as she likes to do and kept over in the 30-35 degree range. We crossed the reef and into the Gulf Stream who must have still been sleeping because it was kind to us with low rollers and indigo waters. The current was stronger than we hoped so our planned heading of 107-112 degrees ended up more in the 120+ range to compensate. Not a big deal other than we didn't get to use it to our advantage. The wind then was more on our nose but again it was not bad just not the magical 'ride the gulf' that others have had. That's ok, we'll have our turn at that later ;-)
The important point is that it was a soft crossing and we did get both sails up during. The clouds still stared us down but never sent the squalls to us as was predicted. A reason we left so early was to get to Bimini early and avoid the worst of it. It worked and apparently when I napped, we did get a just smidge of rain. Even behind the clouds, an open water sunrise still feels like a smile from above.
I wish I could describe being on the open water. You feel small and helpless but in a way part of what's around you and ironically for me who is afraid of being under water, I feel comforted. Trusting your boat and captain is an important part of that as well. And the stars...my heart grows even remembering it.
During the trip, Jon took his hand at fishing but alas we had no bites. He looked very cool doing it though! I am pretty sure the Mahi know that Jon is comin' for 'em. And he was very cool manning the helm!
Mark had less fun switching our head to manual pump out and tightening the hoses...you can guess how we knew they were loose. Ew.
We found better wind after sunrise and after coming within 1/2 mile of a cargo ship's path so out came the head sail and we enjoyed better speeds up in the 6 knot range. At 1030 we spotted land! By noon we were in the Bimini Channel with its gorgeous clear blue water tying up at the dock. Mark cleared us in in no time while Jon and I tidied the boat and I did my check ins at home. A light lunch then we set out to explore. Alicetown is a easy unassuming Island 'city' with little house like shops and grocers and eats and bars. A boat Mark had been chatting with came by the dock while in North Bimini to check in--how nice was that! She described the town as much like the small places in BVI and when I walked out the gate, yes it was. It reminded me of two different places that I had been including the people who greet you on the street when you take that fraction of a second to looking their eyes and smile and give an easy 'hello'. We should all do that no matter where we are.
The place maybe has seen better days, who has any right to say, but even so it's here and alive and welcoming. I hope it will enjoy some benefits without being overcome or overly Americanized by the resort on the northern quarter. For now it is quiet and simple and we like it. What a delicate balance--people and development can bring money and opportunity but also silly demands and expectations that can ruin or erase a culture and way of life that was the reason you wanted to visit in the first place. We stopped in the now reopened End of the World Bar...not sure how that's going to go but the man thanked us for coming to Bimini. The love and pride in their towns despite what people may say is what keeps their hearts beating even through difficult days.
Best part of the day was Sherry's for rum punch and conch salad that she made right then and there. It was awesome. We had dinner at the marina restaurant and another very generous rum drink then home to bed. Not sure how Mark was still standing after the crossing, docking, clearing on no sleep but the man will not be stopped.
We had a deluge last night and the blow predicted may have either passed or is yet to come--I have given up on weather predicting--so we will be here today for sure. We want to meet up with Island Khaya for a "we did it" celebration. They are so happy to be back among the islands and you can see that glow all about them. We also remembered how much our bumpers and lines whine and squeak on a dock--last time we were in a dock was Dania for repairs. We plan to have minimal dock time anyway :-) Today we will figure out why the SSB email to Mark's parents did not go through then go out the gate in the other direction. I was told jogging may happen--yay!
Maybe we will find more of this:
Next stop? Berrys or Andros or straight to Exumas? Not sure but it'll be fun to find out! Stay curious my friends! XO Suzanne
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